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Whole Goose · Nose to Tail — All Dark Meat & the Best Fat There Is

a goose — wild or a holiday bird — is almost all dark meat wrapped in a layer of the finest cooking fat going. The breast eats like a lean steak (rare, sliced thin); the legs are tough and want a long confit or braise; and you render pounds of goose fat for the crispest potatoes of your life. Nothing about a goose cooks like a chicken. Wild birds are leaner and gamier — rest well and slice thin.

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