David's Chicken, White Wine & Capers

Boneless thighs in a buttery lemon-caper pan sauce, over thick noodles — David's request

Serves 4 · 30 min

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1½ lb boneless chicken thighs (cook a few extra for sammies)
salt · pepper · flour, to dredge
2 Tbsp olive oil + 2 Tbsp butter, to sear
3 garlic cloves, sliced
¾ cup dry white wine
¾ cup chicken stock
3 Tbsp capers, drained
1 lemon — juice + a little zest
3 Tbsp cold butter, to finish the sauce
parsley, chopped
12 oz thick noodles — pappardelle, wide egg noodles, or fettuccine · reserve pasta water

Boil the noodles al dente. Salt the water well, cook the thick noodles a minute shy, and save a cup of pasta water before draining. Toss with a little oil so they don't clump.
Sear the thighs. Pat dry, season with salt and pepper, and dredge lightly in flour. Sear in the oil + butter over medium-high until deep golden and cooked through, a few minutes a side. Pull them out. The flour browns and later thickens the sauce.
Deglaze with the wine. Lower the heat, add the garlic for 30 seconds, then pour in the wine and scrape up every browned bit. Simmer until reduced by half — that's cooking off the raw alcohol and concentrating the flavor.
Build the sauce. Add the stock and capers; simmer a few minutes to reduce slightly and let the capers give up their brine.
Mount with cold butter — off the heat. Pull the pan off the burner and swirl in the cold butter a pat at a time with the lemon juice and zest until the sauce goes glossy and thick. Don't boil it after the butter or it'll break.
Bring it together. Return the chicken (and its juices) to warm through. Toss the noodles with a ladle of sauce and a splash of pasta water so they cling. Plate noodles, chicken on top, the rest of the sauce over, and parsley.

Steps — tap one to keep your place

1. Boil the noodles al dente. Salt the water well, cook the thick noodles a minute shy, and save a cup of pasta water before draining. Toss with a little oil so they don't clump.

2. Sear the thighs. Pat dry, season with salt and pepper, and dredge lightly in flour. Sear in the oil + butter over medium-high until deep golden and cooked through, a few minutes a side. Pull them out. The flour browns and later thickens the sauce.

3. Deglaze with the wine. Lower the heat, add the garlic for 30 seconds, then pour in the wine and scrape up every browned bit. Simmer until reduced by half — that's cooking off the raw alcohol and concentrating the flavor.

4. Build the sauce. Add the stock and capers; simmer a few minutes to reduce slightly and let the capers give up their brine.

5. Mount with cold butter — off the heat. Pull the pan off the burner and swirl in the cold butter a pat at a time with the lemon juice and zest until the sauce goes glossy and thick. Don't boil it after the butter or it'll break.

6. Bring it together. Return the chicken (and its juices) to warm through. Toss the noodles with a ladle of sauce and a splash of pasta water so they cling. Plate noodles, chicken on top, the rest of the sauce over, and parsley.

No alcohol? swap the wine or beer for the same amount of stock, with a splash of vinegar or lemon for the brightness. Low salt — salt at the end and taste as you go; broth, cheese, and canned goods already bring salt.