Chicken-Skin Sugo

the skin from 4 roast chicken thighs, chopped
2–3 Tbsp butter
the roast carrots & onion (from under the thighs), chopped
1 head roasted garlic, squeezed from the skins
3–4 Tbsp tomato paste
1–2 cups chicken stock
1 lb paste (San Marzano) tomatoes, chopped — for body
1–2 lb slicing/roasting tomatoes, chopped
salt · pepper · basil, oregano or a bay leaf · chili flakes (optional)

What you need

the skin from 4 roast chicken thighs, chopped

2–3 Tbsp butter

the roast carrots & onion (from under the thighs), chopped

1 head roasted garlic, squeezed from the skins

3–4 Tbsp tomato paste

1–2 cups chicken stock

1 lb paste (San Marzano) tomatoes, chopped — for body

1–2 lb slicing/roasting tomatoes, chopped

salt · pepper · basil, oregano or a bay leaf · chili flakes (optional)

Fry the skin to a fond. Chop the roast skin and fry it in the butter over medium until it crisps and leaves browned bits (fond) stuck to the pan — that fond is the whole savory backbone.
Add the roast veg & garlic. Stir in the chopped roast carrots and onion and the squeezed roasted garlic; warm through, mashing the garlic into the fat.
Darken the paste. Add the tomato paste and cook it 2–3 min until it turns from bright to brick-dark — caramelizing the paste kills its raw tang and deepens the color and umami.
Deglaze with stock. Pour in the chicken stock and scrape up all the fond; let it come together into a loose base.
Tomatoes, in two waves. Add the paste tomatoes and simmer 20–30 min to break down, then the slicing tomatoes and simmer another 30–45 min, until it's a rich, glossy sauce. Season with salt, pepper, and herbs; leave it rustic or blend smooth.
Use or store. Spoon it over the rollatini, pasta, or polenta now; otherwise cool and refrigerate 3–4 days or freeze. Not for canning.

Steps — tap one to keep your place

1. Fry the skin to a fond. Chop the roast skin and fry it in the butter over medium until it crisps and leaves browned bits (fond) stuck to the pan — that fond is the whole savory backbone.

2. Add the roast veg & garlic. Stir in the chopped roast carrots and onion and the squeezed roasted garlic; warm through, mashing the garlic into the fat.

3. Darken the paste. Add the tomato paste and cook it 2–3 min until it turns from bright to brick-dark — caramelizing the paste kills its raw tang and deepens the color and umami.

4. Deglaze with stock. Pour in the chicken stock and scrape up all the fond; let it come together into a loose base.

5. Tomatoes, in two waves. Add the paste tomatoes and simmer 20–30 min to break down, then the slicing tomatoes and simmer another 30–45 min, until it's a rich, glossy sauce. Season with salt, pepper, and herbs; leave it rustic or blend smooth.

6. Use or store. Spoon it over the rollatini, pasta, or polenta now; otherwise cool and refrigerate 3–4 days or freeze. Not for canning.

No alcohol? swap the wine or beer for the same amount of stock, with a splash of vinegar or lemon for the brightness. Low salt — salt at the end and taste as you go; broth, cheese, and canned goods already bring salt.